5.30am this morning!  The first North swell of the year arrived during the night and I’d promised Drew that we’d go before school.  We arrived at Encuentro just as daylight was breaking – surprised to see 4 other vehicles already there.    North and North/east swells are what everyone is waiting for the whole summer; longer intervals between waves (12 or 13 secs) makes for cleaner waves and longer rides.

15 kids all ran for the water – shouting with joy as they paddled out.  What a life they have here!   The waves were fairly big and they all entered the water just as a large set came through; some of them didn’t make it out with the pack, but all persevered until they reached the line up.  I sat and watched the sun begin to rise over the glassy water.  God I love that place at that time – I took some shots and I’ll post them in a bit.

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